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Samosas

Indian potato-and-pea samosas with a shatteringly flaky shell. The moyan trick and the frying secret that keep them crisp, never greasy.

60 min Medium India 4 servings
Samosas

The story behind

The samosa is a traveler with a long passport. Its ancestor, the sambusak, was fried in the kitchens of the Middle East and Central Asia, and medieval Persian writers described little triangular pastries stuffed with meat centuries ago. Traders and Muslim courts carried it into the Indian subcontinent between the tenth and thirteenth centuries, where it found its most famous incarnation: filled with spiced potato and peas, the undisputed champion of Indian street snacks. The dough is where success is won or lost. Rubbing the right amount of oil into the flour first, a step known as moyan, coats the gluten strands so the fried shell shatters into flaky, blistered layers rather than turning hard. Knead it firm, then rest it so the gluten relaxes and rolls thin without tearing. Fry over medium heat, never screaming hot, or the outside browns before the inside cooks and the pastry drinks up grease while staying pale within. Keep the filling dry-seasoned so it never sogs the wrapper. Split one open fresh from the oil and steam escapes, carrying cumin and coriander into the room. Serve with tamarind or mint chutney.

Instructions

  1. 1
    Rub the oil into the flour and salt, then add water bit by bit to make a stiff dough. Cover and let it rest for 30 minutes.
  2. 2
    Sauté the cumin and ginger in a pan, add the potatoes, peas, and spices. Give it a good mix and let the filling cool down.
  3. 3
    Roll out small balls of dough into circles, cut them in half, and fold each half into a cone shape.
  4. 4
    Stuff the cone with the potato mix and seal the edges tightly with a dab of water.
  5. 5
    Deep fry in medium-hot oil until they turn that beautiful golden brown and feel super crispy.

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