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Kaiserschmarrn

Kaiserschmarrn, the "emperor's mess": the Austrian pancake torn on purpose. The whipped-whites trick that makes it impossibly fluffy.

30 min Easy Austriaca 2 servings
Kaiserschmarrn

The story behind

The name gives the game away: Kaiserschmarrn translates to "the emperor's mess." The most-repeated tale ties it to Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria-Hungary in the nineteenth century, though several competing origin stories float around and are best enjoyed with a wink rather than treated as settled fact. What's certain is that it became a signature sweet of Austria and old Bavaria, a pancake deliberately torn into ragged pieces. Technique is the whole secret to its unmistakable texture: the egg whites are whipped to stiff peaks and gently folded into the batter, trapping air that, once cooked in butter, leaves the pancake fluffy and cloud-like inside. After it sets, it's shredded into chunks right in the pan and lightly caramelized with a little sugar, giving golden, crisp edges against a tender middle. A dusting of powdered sugar finishes it, served warm and almost always with plum compote or applesauce. It straddles the line between a generous breakfast and a comforting dessert.

Instructions

  1. 1
    In a large bowl, whisk the yolks with the milk, sugar, salt, and flour until the batter is smooth.
  2. 2
    In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then gently fold them into the batter to keep it airy.
  3. 3
    Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat and pour in the whole batter. Sprinkle the raisins on top now if you're using them.
  4. 4
    Let it brown on the bottom for a few minutes, then use a spatula to cut it into quarters so you can flip it more easily.
  5. 5
    Once cooked on both sides, start tearing it into irregular bite-sized pieces with your spatula while it finishes browning.
  6. 6
    Dust generously with powdered sugar before serving and enjoy it while it's nice and hot.

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