Memories of Oaxaca: Banana Leaf Tamale
Oaxacan banana-leaf tamales: why they're denser than central Mexico's, plus the whipped-lard float test that makes them steam light, not heavy.
The story behind
The technical key is whipping the lard until it turns pale and aerated. Drop a tiny ball of dough into water: if it floats, the masa has trapped enough air to steam light instead of heavy. Chicken broth goes in gradually, hydrating the dough without flooding it, since masa that is too wet never sets under steam.
The banana leaf is passed briefly over an open flame or hot comal. The heat breaks down its fibers so it folds without cracking, and releases oils that migrate into the masa as it cooks. The classic filling is chicken or pork bathed in dark mole negro or coloradito.
When that scent of corn and toasted leaf rises with the steam, the tamale is done. Keep any leftovers tightly wrapped; crisped on the comal the next morning, they are arguably even better.
Instructions
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1Whip the lard in a large bowl until it's white and airy, almost like whipped cream.
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2Slowly add the corn dough and the broth, alternating between them, and keep beating until the mixture is light. Pro tip: if a small ball of dough floats in a glass of water, it's ready.
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3Clean the banana leaves and quickly pass them over a gas flame until they change color and become flexible.
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4Cut the leaves into rectangles and spread a thin layer of dough in the center. Place a generous spoonful of meat with mole or sauce in the middle.
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5Carefully fold the leaf to close the tamale, forming a well-sealed rectangular pouch.
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6Place the tamales in a steamer over boiling water. Cover tightly and steam for about an hour and a half.
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7Let them rest for 10 minutes away from the heat before opening. Serve with lots of love!
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